Puerto Rico

Cost of living

What a month costs

Cheaper than mainland US big cities but pricey for the Caribbean. Imported goods, electricity and cars cost more than newcomers expect.

The scores

How it rates for a moving family

See and do

Top 10 in San Juan

1. Castillo San Felipe del MorroThe clifftop Spanish fortress guarding the bay entrance, a UNESCO site and the city's icon.
2. Castillo San CristóbalThe larger companion fort with tunnels and sweeping views over the Atlantic.
3. Old San JuanBlue cobblestone streets lined with pastel colonial houses, the historic heart of the city.
4. Paseo de la PrincesaA tree-lined seaside promenade below the walls, great for evening strolls and street vendors.
5. La FortalezaThe governor's mansion and oldest executive residence still in use in the Americas.
6. Catedral de San Juan BautistaOne of the oldest churches in the Americas and the resting place of explorer Juan Ponce de León.
7. Condado beachThe city's lively hotel-and-beach strip, walkable and popular with newcomers.
8. Museo de Arte de Puerto RicoThe island's flagship art museum in Santurce, with a fine collection and gardens.
9. Calle San SebastiánThe famous nightlife street in Old San Juan, packed with bars and live music.
10. Puerta de San JuanThe red 18th-century city gate where ships once entered the walled town.

Where to go

Weekend escapes

1. El Yunque National ForestThe only tropical rainforest in the US forest system, about 45 minutes east, with waterfalls and easy trails.
2. ViequesSmall island off the east coast famous for Mosquito Bay, one of the brightest bioluminescent bays on earth.
3. CulebraReached by ferry or short flight, home to Flamenco Beach and calm snorkelling waters.
4. PonceThe elegant southern city with colonial plazas, the red-and-black Parque de Bombas and a strong art museum.
5. RincónWest coast surf town with sunset beaches and a laid-back expat scene, about two and a half hours away.

Coffee

Best cafes

1. Café Cuatro SombrasOld San Juan roastery serving beans from its own family farm in Yauco.
2. Café Don RuizCosy spot inside the Cuartel de Ballajá pouring locally grown coffee.
3. CaficulturaPopular Old San Juan brunch cafe with strong coffee and long weekend queues.
4. La BomboneraA 1902 institution beloved for its buttery mallorca pastries and old-school counter.

Restaurants

Where to eat

1. MarmaladeOld San Juan tasting-menu restaurant, a long-running fine-dining favourite.
2. SantaellaChef José Santaella's stylish Santurce spot beside La Placita market.
3. José EnriqueThe pioneering Puerto Rican chef's restaurant in Santurce, famed for market-driven local cooking.
4. 1919Refined dining inside the historic Condado Vanderbilt hotel.
5. Casita MiramarWarm neighbourhood house serving traditional Puerto Rican comfort food.
6. ViandaFarm-to-table Santurce kitchen with a seasonal island menu.
7. Lote 23Open-air gastropark in Santurce gathering many of the city's best food vendors.

Morning

Best breakfast

1. KasaltaThe famous Ocean Park bakery and deli, known for cafecito and a strong pastry counter.
2. La BomboneraHistoric Old San Juan bakery where locals start the day with a mallorca and coffee.
3. CaficulturaReliable Old San Juan brunch with eggs, toasts and good espresso.
4. Café Cuatro SombrasSmall-batch coffee and light morning bites in the old town.

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